Key Takeaways
- The most common reasons for removing locs are the desire for a new hairstyle or scalp health concerns (like buildup or dermatitis).
- You can remove locs by cutting them out or combing them out. Regardless of the chosen method, it is crucial to care for your hair and scalp post-removal with conditioning treatments.
Locs are one of the most versatile styles for textured hair—they're also incredibly long-lasting. With consistent maintenance, you can keep growing them forever. However, not everyone may want to wear their locs for years on end. If you're in that camp, you're not alone, but there are a few key things to know about loc removal before you start the process.
We've asked hairstylists Stephanie Hinkle, Sarah Sango, and Laverne Amara to tell us everything there is to know about removing locs, from the best methods to the aftercare routine to follow. Keep reading to learn more.
Meet the Experts
- Stephanie Hinkle is a textured hairstylist and a brand ambassador for Keranique.
- Sarah Sango is an international hair expert, global educator, and stylist at Lush.
- LaVerne Amara is the founder of NVLX Labs.
The Reasons for Removing Locs
Hinkle says locs are strands of hair that have intentionally been matted and knotted together through twisting, backcombing, crocheting, or interlocking. "They often symbolize cultural heritage, spirituality, and personal freedom," she adds.
While everyone's reason for removal will vary, there are a few common threads. Hinkle says some include the desire for a new hairstyle or haircut, scalp health concerns (like buildup or dermatitis), heaviness of the locs, and life changes that are either personal, spiritual, or professional.
How to Prepare to Remove Locs
Preparation is key to ensuring the removal process is smooth. The first thing you will need to do is wash your locs thoroughly to remove any buildup. "After the locs have been cleansed, soak them in water and apply a generous amount of lubricating conditioner or natural oil (like coconut oil)," Sango says. "This will help to soften the hair and reduce breakage during the process."
How long it will take to remove your locs depends on factors like your hair's length. "Removing one loc at home can take 15-60 minutes, with an entire head taking 10- 30+ hours," Hinkle says. "The process is best done in two or three-hour sessions to avoid fatigue," Hinkle explains. Those who have mature locs (over four years) might want to go to a salon specializing in loc removal and scalp recovery for best results.
Method 1: Combing Locs Out
"Combing out locs can damage hair if rushed or done without the proper tools," Amara says. "When combing out locs to retain length, hair can be damaged because the strands are tightly fused and tangled. Even with patience and conditioner, the mechanical stress of picking apart years of intertwined hair may lead to loss of strength, elasticity, and overall health."
That said, if you choose this method, here's what to know: After cleansing and conditioning your locs, group them into four to six sections to make the process more manageable. From there, Sango says you can begin combing. "Using a metal pick or comb, begin patiently picking out the hair from the tip of the loc, working your way slowly toward the scalp," she says.
Once you've removed one loc, continue working through your sections and reapply conditioner to your remaining locs as needed. Sango adds that picking out your hair can tire your arms and hands, so ensure you're working in a comfortable position to avoid strain and take breaks periodically.
Method 2: Cutting Locs Out
You might want to cut your locs rather than comb them out for many reasons. "For many, especially those with very mature or dense locs, cutting off the locs may be quicker and more practical," Sango says. "This method drastically reduces the removal time and potential stress on your hair and scalp."
With this method, Amara recommends going to a professional. If you decide to cut them off at home, here's a step-by-step guide: First, you'll need to determine how much hair you want to preserve. From there, Sango recommends sectioning your locs into manageable parts. "Using sharp scissors, carefully cut each loc off," she says. "If your locs are matted, cut them about one inch below the matting."
Afterward, you can move on to detangling your hair with a metal pick or comb. "When the process is complete, apply a conditioning mask of your choice to strengthen and replenish your hair," Sango says. Post-removal, she recommends getting a short haircut to allow your hair and scalp to breathe and recover.
Byrdie Tip
According to Hinkle, you'll likely experience a lot of shedding while removing your locs. "Locs trap hair that will eventually shed over time," she says. "Normally, we shed between 60 and 120 hairs a day, so this is a natural part of the process."
Aftercare
Caring for your hair after removing locs is crucial to maintaining hair health. Use a gentle, hydrating shampoo post-removal to get rid of buildup. "Apply a reconstructive mask immediately after to strengthen hair strands," Sango adds.
Amara also advises visiting your go-to hairstylist shortly for some extra TLC. "I recommend visiting a professional for a trim, protein treatment, and moisturizing treatment to set your natural hair on the best path forward," she says.
Giving your hair time to recover after loc removal is also beneficial. "Give your hair at least two weeks to recover before applying any chemicals, weaves, extensions, or braids," Sango says. "Locs, particularly long and dense ones, can cause tension, so allow your scalp and hair time to adjust and heal."
The Final Takeaway
Whether you comb your locs out or cut them, the most important thing to remember is not to rush the process. Removing your locs with patience and a gentle touch will help preserve the health of your hair and scalp. Once they're removed, aftercare is essential. To promote healthy hair and a balanced scalp, make sure to use nourishing products at home and consider booking an appointment with your stylist for a proper trim and conditioning treatments.
